Nara: Oh Deer

Nara is one of the places that I was most looking forward to visiting during my stay in the Kansai region. I'd spent hours (literally, hours) googling pictures of the adorable deer that populate Nara Park, and was in a frenzy of anticipation at the prospect of being able to feed these cuties with wafers (which you can purchase for just 100 JPY in the park). I mean, just look at them:

Cute Deer Numbers 1 and 2

Cute Deer Number 3

Cute Deer Number 4

However, what should have been one of the best moments of my time in Japan (if not one of the best moments of all time), quickly descended into farce as I proceeded to be pecked repeatedly on the bum by impatient deer who didn't have the time for me to unwrap the biscuits. Once unwrapped, I attempted to feed the ungrateful deer, but ended up practically throwing the wafers at them as they got more and more aggressive, and I more or less broke into a sprint in the opposite direction as soon as the last biscuit had left my hands. I only saw the following warning sign after the heartless attack had taken place, which frankly was just too little, too late.

I suppose it is often the moments you most look forward to that end up in disappointment. You just hype them up so much in your mind that the reality can never quite live up the imagination. Anyway, once I'd gotten over the fact that the deer had ruined what should have been a beautiful moment for all involved, the rest of the day unfolded, and as I walked through Nara Park I realised that although I had come for the deer, Nara had so much more to offer.

A red torii gate sits on an island in Nara Park

Todai-ji is Nara's centrepiece, a great temple with a huge Buddha statue in its main hall. One of the reasons why such an impressive temple exists in Nara is because the city used to be Japan's capital. The central hall, where the Buddha resides, is actually the largest wooden building in the world.

Daibutsuden (Big Buddha Hall)

Daibutsu (Big Buddha) is 15m tall

Bodhisattvas statues sit either side of the Buddha 

Other Buddhist statues decorate the rest of the interior of the hall

There are a couple of other buildings in the Todai-ji temple complex worth looking at, including the Nigatsu-do and Hokke-do halls. The walk uphill to these is worthwhile, with ancient trees and stone pillars lining the way to the top.

Once I'd wandered around the Todai-ji temple complex, I visited Isui-en Garden, which sits just outside Nara Park. I've become incredibly fond of Japanese gardens since coming to Japan, and when visiting a new place I tend to seek out the nearest landscaped garden and pay it a visit. They are not only beautiful places aesthetically, but also provide a soothing respite from hectic urban life.

The entry fee to the garden also includes entry to the museum, which holds the ceramics collection of the garden's founder, Nakamura Junsaku. He collected ceramics from Japan, China and Korea. 

If after that, you're still hungry for more, there's another Japanese Garden just next door, called Yoshikien. Even better, it offers free entry to foreign visitors. This was a pleasant surprise, as many of the benefits offered to foreigners are only for those on tourist visas, and as I am here on a working holiday visa, I don't normally qualify.

Like most Japanse gardens, this one is divided into distinct parts: a pond garden, a moss garden and the garden of tea ceremony flowers.

The pond garden at Yoshikien

Cheeky deer, a giant Buddha and impressive gardens. It was a long day sightseeing in Nara, but unfortunately there were still things I didn't have time to see, such as the Nara National Museum. But as I drank a matcha latte at the end of the day, my tired feet told me that the day had been a good effort nonetheless.

What do you think of Japanese Gardens? Do you like their manicured appearance, or do you prefer a more 'natural' garden design?

I ♥ Kobe

When people talk about the Kansai region in Japan, they often praise the historic charm of Kyoto, the dazzling city lights of Osaka, and the adorable (and sacred) deer of Nara. All of which certainly deserve the appreciation they receive. However, for me, Kobe stands out as a real gem of the region. Perhaps it doesn't have the same jaw-dropping sights as some of these other places: but I promise that if you give it a chance, you will quickly experience the joy of Kobe!

I visited Kobe a couple of times during my stay in the Kansai region, and I will write another post with the details of the places I visited on those days. For now, I'd just like to list a few of the reasons why I  ♥  Kobe!

The Mountains
Kobe has an enviable location, between the foot of the Rokko Mountain range and the sea. The mountains offer many kilometres of hiking trail, as well as a couple of interesting destinations, including Nunobiki Falls and Nunobiki Herb Gardens. I love being able to escape the city easily, and so its proximity to the mountains, where you can enjoy nature, fresh air, and an incredible view of the city below, are one of the main reasons I love Kobe.

Nunobiki Herb Garden & Ropeway

Nunobiki Falls

A view of the city and port from above

The Sea
Of course, Kobe Bay offers the second route of escape from the city. Although it is a busy port area, it is still incredibly soothing to be able to sit by the bay, look out over the sea and enjoy the sea breeze. Meriken Park offers an area where you can relax, have a picnic and enjoy being beside the seaside on a sunny day. There are also some worthwhile places to visit in the port area, including the Earthquake Memorial Park, Kobe Port Tower, and Kobe Maritime Museum.

A view out into the bay

A glimpse of the great destruction caused by the Great Hanshin-Awaji earthquake

Earthquake memorial park with Kobe Maritime Museum and Kobe Port Tower in the background

The City
Not only does Kobe have a wonderful location, between the mountains and the sea: the town itself is also quite stylish and well looked after. The first time I visited Kobe, I walked from Sannomiya station towards the sea, via Flower Road, which very much lives up to its name, being decorated not only with beautiful flower beds, but also sculptures and fountains. Kobe seems to take pride in its appearance, which makes walking through the city a more pleasant experience for both tourists and residents alike.

Flower road, living up to its name

A fountain on Flower Road

The tree-lined road viewed from above

The Vibe
I'm not sure if it's the mediterranean sensation of walking along the waterfront, or the tree-lined avenues, but I feel like Kobe has much more of a laid-back, continental vibe than some other cities in the area. 

On my first visit to Kobe, I came across a farmers' market, an initiative by Eat Local Kobe. Saturday morning markets selling fresh local produce abound in Europe, but I hadn't come across something like this in Japan previously. It was a joy to find this busy little market, with visitors enjoying the variety of edible offerings from local producers.

The Kitano area in Kobe, where foreign merchants historically settled, also has a very European air to it - plus lots of continental-inspired cafes and restaurants to go with it.

Weathercock House, Kitano

Statue of a saxophone player

These are just some of the reasons why I love Kobe. There are of course many other reasons to visit Kobe: from the famous Kobe beef to the historic sake district, from Arima onsen to the longest suspension bridge in the world. Whatever your interests, be it food, nature or culture, there's much to explore in Kobe. It's such a relaxed and liveable city, that I really hope I can spend more time there in the future.

What do you like best about Kobe?

Koya-san: Sacred Mountain

Koya-san is located south of Osaka, in a mountainous area surrounded by eight peaks. Kobo Daishi, founder of the Shingon sect of Buddhism in Japan, selected this place in the year 819 to build its headquarters, because he believed that the terrain auspiciously resembled a lotus plant. The area is still populated by over 100 temples today, and due to the presence of Kobo Daishi's mausoleum, is a popular point of pilgrimage.

My own journey to Koya-san felt somewhat like a pilgrimage, having to take three trains, a funicular railway and a bus to get there. The long journey is at least scenic, with the last section of the train winding through luscious mountain forest, and the final climb offering a dizzying view.

Boarding the funicular at Gokurakubashi station

Once at the top of the funicular station, you have to take a bus down into Koya-san itself, as the mountain roads have been deigned too narrow to accommodate both vehicles and pedestrian tourists. I took the bus all the way to Okunoin, the site of the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, which is at the far end of the town, and began my exploration of the area there.

Okunoin
Okunoin was definitely the area in Koya-san that I most looked forward to visiting, as I find visiting cemeteries for different religions and in different countries quite fascinating. They are more often than not, awe-inspiring places that reveal much about the history of the area. Okunoin certainly promised to be impressive, being home to 200,000 Buddhist tombstones. It didn't disappoint, and I could have spent several hours there if I'd had more time.

The many tombstones, statues and votive figures, some of vastly different ages, all closely packed together, made for an awesome sight in this ancient forest. The cool and shaded nature of the place made it feel like a sanctuary. The awesome walk through this cemetery eventually leads you, after roughly a 2km walk, to Kobo Daishi's Mausoleum and Torodo Hall (a hall with 10,000 lanterns that are kept eternally lit). These are in a sacred area dedicated to prayer, where photography is strictly prohibited. 

After making my way out of the Okunoin complex, I walked back into town, where a number of key sights are clustered together. You can buy a combination ticket for 1,500 JPY to visit 6 different venues (the ticket can be bought at any of the venues I mention below). It not only saves you money if you visit most of them, but also saves you the hassle of counting out your change each time you want to enter another venue. The ticket itself also makes for a nice memento of the day!

Kongobuji Temple
Kongobuji Temple is the head temple of the Shingon Sect, and you can enter the temple itself. Admission is 500 JPY if bought on its own, or you can buy the combination ticket mentioned above.

The main attraction inside the temple are the painted sliding screens (however, no photography of the screens is allowed). Entry to the temple also includes a free cup of green tea and cracker, which you can enjoy in the large tatami hall.

Entrance to Kongobuji Temple

View from the interior of the temple

View from the interior of the temple

Complimentary cup of green tea

Reihokan Museum
Although this museum holds thousands of pieces of Buddhist art work, only a small selection of the collection can be displayed at any one time, making it a manageable museum that can be enjoyed in an hour or so. When I visited, items on display included statues of the five wisdom kings and large world mandalas.

Garan Temple Complex
This is Koya-san's main temple complex, which was founded by Kobo Daishi. Its two primary structures are the Kondo Hall and Konpon Daito Pagoda. Entry to both of these is included in the Koya-san combination ticket. Inside the pagoda there is a statue of Vairocana Buddha.

Inside the Garan Temple complex

Inside the Garan Temple complex

Konpon Daito pagoda

Tokugawa Mausoleum
These two mausolea enshrine the first two shogun of the Tokugawa family, and are set amongst an impressive forest back-drop.

The two mausolea are identical...

...and have an impressive forest back-drop

The mausolea are located on the way back up towards the funicular station, so are a good last stop before catching the bus back up.

Whilst waiting for the bus back, we noticed a sign pointing up into the woods, showing the directions for Bentendake shrine, roughly a 1km hike away. Despite an accompanying sign warning that bears had recently been spotted in the woods (!), we braved the hike, and were rewarded with breath-taking views across the valley when we finally made it to the top.

Koya-san definitely sits near the top of my list in terms of places to visit in the Kansai region. It is not the easiest place to get to, but the remote nature of the area is a huge part of its charm. It was incredibly restorative to get away from the busy city for a day, breathe the fresh air in the mountains, and visit this spiritual centre. 

One thing I sadly wasn't able to experience at Koya-san was shukubo, an overnight lodging at a Buddhist temple. This must be a really unique experience, where you get an insight into the lives of Buddhist monks for one night, staying in a traditional Japanese room and also eating the vegetarian monk's cuisine at dinner and breakfast. If I ever make a second pilgrimage to Koya, I will definitely arrange this.

Have you ever visited a site of pilgrimage, either in Japan or elsewhere?